This is a shot I took of Coney Island at night. My DSLR was being fixed at the time, so I shot it with a Canon G7, which is an advanced compact camera. An interesting thing to note on this shot, is that the aperture is fairly wide at f/2.8. But despite that fact, notice how deep a depth of field we get on the shot. The reason for this is due to the smaller sensor on the compact camera.
On a DSLR in order to get the equivalent depth of field, you would need a setting of about f/13 on a full-frame camera and about f/8 on a cropped-sensor camera. This fact illustrates why it is near impossible to do blurred backgrounds with a compact sensor camera.
Here’s another of the Roosevelt Island Tram. I thought it’d be cool to put everything in the shot in black and white and just leave the tram a nice bright red. It looks nice right?
Normally, something like this calls for Photoshop, but believe it or not, it is actually not so hard to do in Lightroom.
This shot is of a Romeo and Juliet sculpture in Central Park near the Delecorte Theatre. The theatre shows free Shakespeare plays in the summer. I thought looked particularly nice in black and white.
The vignetting effect on this shot was done using the Post-Crop vignetting panel in lightroom. There are actually two areas that control vignetting in lightroom. The first is under Lens Corrections. This area is more designed to correct for natural vignetting that occurs from lens imperfections. This type of imperfection will of course only show on the corners of your shot, and will disappear if you crop off the corners. Therefore, if you crop your shot, these lens correction vignetting adjustments will not “travel” with your crop.
Because people started using vignetting as an artistic effect, Adobe added the Post-Crop Vignetting panel under Effects. Like the name says, the vignetting here will be maintained on any crop of your photo. There are various styles of vignetting that you can do here and you can experiment with them yourself.
Now you know, and knowing is half the battle.
Here is a new shot of the Roosevelt Island Tram I took the other day. The Tram is actually one of the few aerial *commuter* trams in the world. It runs from 59th and 2nd in Manhattan to Main Street on Roosevelt Island. The cost is the same as a ride on the subway.
You might be wondering about the sky in this shot and how I got the clouds to pop out like that. Well, I used a lens filter known as a Circular Polarizer.
Sports mode is useful not just for sports. Anytime you want to freeze action, or you are unsure about whether something will move, you can quickly switch to sports mode.
It’s useful to understand exactly what “sports mode” actually does if you decide to use it on your camera. The reason why I like it a lot is because it quickly changes three key settings at once.
- It changes your autofocus to AI Servo. AI Servo will continually adjust the focus of your lens while your finger is half-pressing the shutter button. It is *very* useful for moving objects.
- It changes your autofocus to use all your focal points at once. Usually I use the single, center focus point to focus my shots so that I have full control. The issue with moving objects is that you usually aren’t fast enough to make sure the focus is on the center point.
- It forces your shutter speed to be very fast, so as to freeze the action. Usually this will also force the aperture to open to its widest.
Photosnobs will sometimes call the scene presets “dummy modes.” Well if they can help me snag a shot, then I’m happy to be a dummy.